Scarpa Instinct VSW climbing shoe – 2019

Scarpa Instinct VSW climbing shoe – 2019


hey I’m Nathan welcome to the Scarpa
booth this is a model of the instinct VSW and we thought about this model for
a long time actually and it’s not actually that much different from a VSR
you can see that it has the XS Grip 2 rubber on the bottom similar to a VSR
but the main difference is that we made it on a different last so the new
instinct VSR slipper we made on a new last actually we called it instinct but
it’s actually on the FJ last and it has a narrower heel and a more sculpted
heel than the other instinct last that we have which is the FV and this last is
on an FVW so it’s a very sculptured heel and even more narrow than the FJ
last on the instinct VSR slipper so people can expect to see narrower fit a
lot less volume but the front of the shoe still quite wide which the instinct
is famous for so I think a lot of people have that wider forefoot but a very
narrow heel and we really wanted to make a female version of this super popular
shoe the instinct family it’s famous for its heel actually and the heel is a
double layered heel so it has a two millimeter XS Grip layer and then a
one millimeter XS Grip inlay so that’s two bits on either side so by
layering it in two layers you get friction obviously from the rubber but
you also get thin rubber where you don’t want any bulk and thicker rubber where
you want more support and it gives the ability for the heel to change shape what people don’t really know is the the real key to instinct model is its double
fronted so unlike the vapor which is single fronted and then offset on the
stitch the instinct is double fronted on either side so it’s not that one is
better than the other but it changes the way that the shoe molds to your foot and I think that’s what makes the instincts so popular is that it has a very very good precision with a very very good flex for smearing and obviously of best heal that you can get on the market the downside is it’s really difficult to
get on so it’s got two layers of elastic down the bottom it’s got a lot of rubber
on the toe cap so to get into the shoe is pretty difficult and that’s why the
heel works so well because it’s a real glove like fit so you need to be really
careful getting into the shoe to make sure you get right to the end of the shoe and then peel the heel over right at the end so there’s a lot of pressure
on these bits of the shoe and we wanted to make these
elasticated on either side so it gives this glove like fit but it really means that when you enter and
exit the shoe you have to take a little bit more care than you would in
something like a vapor which opens right up so there are downsides to everything and certainly getting this on and off is one
of the downsides but the heel stays on when you need it to people always say
you know like should I have this for a slab or should I have this for an
overhang and for me when we’re talking about the design of climbing shoes it’s really about the type of foot hold and you can find a small foothold on the
slab and you can find a small foothold on an overhang and that’s really
what we designed the shoe around and basically the more plastic
you put in the shoe and the stiffer you make the midsole the more it performs better on
small holds and you get a reduction in sensitivity and flex and then the less plastic
you put in there then the better the sensitivity and
the better the flex but the less the performance
on small holds so I really divided the shoes up
into small hold large hold flexible supportive rather than saying this is a shoe for a particular angle but certainly for this shoe we see a lot of
competition climbing you can hook in it you can tow hook in it you can smear in it and you can edge in it in bouldering and sport climbing we see a lot of traditional climbing not so much and big wall climbing not so much because it’s a very compressive shoe and it’s hard to get on and off I really think that when
you’re looking at the climbing shoe look not so much at your style but how much pressure you
want to put on your foot and what type of footholds
you want to use with it rather than saying sport climbing or trad climbing or bouldering because all those styles can entail really small footholds
or really bad smears and that’s really what we designed the climbing shoes around I’d say it’s a balanced climbing shoe so it’s good on small holds but compared to a Mago or Boostic it’s not very not nearly as good but if you look at
something like a Boostic for smearing you would say that this shoe smears a
lot better so I’d say both this and the Vapor are our most popular climbing shoes
because they’re so well balanced that’s the reason why

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10 Comments

  1. I guess this steps away a little from, "men's", vs "women's", shoes, and the colors are definitely more neutral. But I really wish the industry would go to, "narrow vs wide", designations. Kinda like Butora.

    There are plenty of men, myself included, with narrower feet and heels, but the marketing and colors make it annoying to try narrower shoes.
    Great looking shoe, and nice presentation, though. I love Scarpa shoes.

  2. Shame they don't make anything bigger than an EU42 in these so definitely just women's only. Good job there Scarpa…

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